Hello Cris, please check the floor plan. Thank you
Thanks a lot, it looks very nice. In the attached pictures I made few changes, mainly regarding space between doors and walls. Also the height of the interior doors was changed to 2150. The glass doors of the 2 bedrooms should be increased to 2500 to be above the minimum exterior glass surface for the bedroom near the winter garden. There is a missing door between guest room and winter garden. Also the door between living room and guest room should open in the other direction. I increased the height of the kitchen and bathroom windows to 950 (with upper end at 2250 from floor level).
I added several interior sizes for the rooms according to my estimations, these are important for checks on furniture sizes.
In the second picture I added some change proposals for the wall/roof/floor sections. I would prefer to put 40 cm thick exterior walls (same thickness assumed for the plan sizes) by increasing the Steico to 80 (wood fiber helps a lot during hot summer) and the inner layer of mineral wool insulation to 100. It would be great to add also Steico 80 to the roof, if technically possible. That would help during hot summers even more than for the exterior walls. It is still unclear what kind of foundation we need to make - I marked in this picture some key layers for foundation assuming no concrete foundation plate but metal screws/cement pillars: it would be great to increase to 150 EPS/XPS plus 250 mineral wool insulations. That would maximize heat comfort in winter and reduce energy consumption for heating like in a low ebnergy house. I hope such changes are possible which should help us get energy class A for the building approval. Thanks a lot
Here are new set of renders.
@chalany Thank you. Can you please make the house exterior walls 4 meters high?
Can you please make the heights and roof slope for the carport like in the old building approval? There were long discussions with the local authority and we cannot convince them to change that
I would like the carport pillars to be vertical (not V-shape) like for the pergolas. We want to install some cement plate sliding in the future and we need a wood structure for that. Moreover the V-shape pillars are not pratical - they block access from carport to the pergola. The carport should be covered with the same type of roof like the house, not with polycarbonate. Thanks
Can you please add the covered entrance, like in my original hand sketch - approx 3,5 - 4 meters long and 1 meter wide? On both sides of the covered entrance can you please put vertical wooden slats like in this picture?
For the stairs to the house entrance, on the entire length of the covered entrance, can you please put on the side handrails?
The interior doors height - can not be changed, we use standart ones ass default.
Steico to 80, not possible, only 40.
Steico 80 to the roof - not possible, to adding any Steico on roof, as we need tough top part of the roof.
No changing foundation for now, till Cris did not decide final version of foundation (ones we know Cristian decision for foundation then we can adjust insulation)
Walls 4 meters high? OK
For the pergolas can you please make a slope for the roof?
OK, George, please make slope 4'
Can you please make the heights and roof slope for the carport like in the old building approval? There were long discussions with the local authority and we cannot convince them to change that.
OK
I would like the carport pillars to be vertical (not V-shape)
OK
covered entrance?
OK
handrails in entrance?
OK
1. There is confusion with the height of pergola and canopy. From 0 or from the floor of the canopy (it is lower). And apparently up to the last beam?
2. All doors were made by 2100 so that they fit under the pergola.
3. "For the stairs to the house entrance, on the entire length of the covered entrance, can you please put on the side" - the question remains.
Also, the question about the fence is not clear.
4. At what level should the pergola floor be, 0 or below 0?
Thanks a lot. It looks very nice. Please find enclosed the scan with some changes. I will explain briefly below the rationale for the main ones. Thanks for your understanding
- Please make the bathroom window to open towards the wall (with kitchen)
- Kitchen windows should be 950 high, ending at 2,25 m from inside floor level. Similar for the bathroom window, ending at 2,25 m from inside floor level (i.e. 750 high)
- Please add 2 vertical beams in the middle for the carport. I plan to close later the carport side on the fence and need those beams in the middle
- Bedroom (near kitchen) - the distance between wall and glass doors should be 650 instead of 550. Both bedrooms should have the same size/area.
- All windows/glass doors should end at 2,25 m from inside floor level. The only exceptions are the ones for the 2 bedrooms (on the side with the pergolas) which we need 2,5 m high (otherwise we do not fulfill the minimum glass area in the bedroom with the 80 cm wide glass door). In that bedroom we also need 10 cm distance between the glass door and the wall.
- We need thicker walls between the middle bedroom and the wintergarden with 25 cm insulation (approx. 274 overall wall width). Same for the wall on the other side, between guest room and winter garden. The reason is that the wintergarden will stay open in summer and need more insulation against outside heat in summer, plus in winter the wintergarden would be kept at low temperature when the house is not used and we need better insulation for the rooms next to wintergarden.
- I moved sligthly a pergola beam to the left in order not to have the covered part of the pergola so close to the bedroom glass door and reduce the natural ligth in that room which is anyway at limit with glass area. I noticed that the covered part of the pergola is not with polycarbonate anymore - please change back with polycarbonate roof.
- The covered entrance for the house should be 4 meter long.
- There will be no concrete plate for the carport, pergola, house entrance and wintergarden entrance like in the latest visualisations. There will be just walkable pavement there.
- Pergola and the entrance covered part should be approx. 30-50 cm above the upper part of the glass doors and entrance door.
- One general remark: all glass doors/windows should be both openable and tiltable, including the glass doors between wintergarden and living/bedroom/guest room
Regarding the starting level of pergola and covered entrance:
- The vertical beams for the pergola and carport should be installed on concrete points/metal screws approx. 25 cm above ground level. There will be pavement on the ground, no concrete plate there.
- For the covered entrance, the 4 meter long and 1 meter wide wooden platform should end at the same level with the entrance door/inside floor to be barrier-free between platform and house inside. The stairs will be between the ground/pavement and the wooden platform. I don't know how you plan to fix the beams supporting the covered entrance - e.g. higher on the wooden platform or lower 25 cm from the ground/pavement similar to the pergola/carport beams.
In case we decide to put the house on metal screws (most likely scenario due to high water risk in the region) instead of a concrete plate (25 cm above groudn level), the metal screws will be approx. 60-70 cm above ground level. Assuming approximately 40 cm thick house floor, the house inside floor and the wooden platform for the entrance will end approx. 100-110 cm from ground level.
Do you know some solutions to close that 60-70 cm perimetral gap between the ground floor and the house which looks nice from outside (similar to the house exterior) and it is also easy to make/not expensive - e.g. some cement fiber panels fixed somehow to the house, polystyrol plates fixed on some metal grids on the back (fixed to the metal screws) and the front side of the polystyrol with silicon facade like the house, or other better solutions which last over time and do not damage the look of the house? That would help a lot, thanks a lot.
I try to explain below the reasons:
- the bathroom window shoudl start from the same level as the kitchen window and have the same height. Otherwise it does not look nice from outside.
- I increased the size of the glass doors in the living from 1600 to 1800 to have more light. No problem for the couch, we don't need 2,5 meter.
- In the bedroom I put instead of 800 cm glass door to the wintergarden 2 glass doors of 1400 together (2x70 cm, openable and tiltable). Thus we get more light in the bedroom from wintergarden. it does not impact too much the furniture in the wintergarden, we put there something smaller.
- I increased the glass door in the guest room from 750 to 800 to have more light. Also shifted by 5 cm to have 650 space from the wall, for the office desk.
I hope you can make this changes without much effort. Thanks a lot
Good evening. I checked again the old building approval for the carport and saw that the following were approved for the carport: max. height from ground level on the wall with the house - 3 meter; max. height from ground level on the landplot border - 2.7 meter. Since we have no chance to get approval for something different for the carport (we tried already last year), I kindly ask you to use these heights for the carport.
I propose using the same 30 cm level difference for the house between the higher and lower walls. I see that now the level difference is around 15 cm. I prefer avoiding long discussion with the local authority due to the slope of the roof and rainwater flow/collection on the roof and go for 30 cm level difference in the visualisations which we will share with them.
Assuming approx. 90-95 cm combined thickness for the house roof and floor, and a minimum interior height of 3 meter on the shorter wall, I propose making the overall exterior height of the house of 4 meter on the shorter wall and 4.3 meter on the higher wall, with this slope we should be safe for the building approval. With these heights we should also have no problems with the pergola height above the glass doors (avoid blocking natural light), including space above the glass doors for the tubes of the decentralized ventilation units. I hope this is possible for you. Thanks a lot once again. Have a nice weekend!
George write a few clarifying questions at once:
1. "Both bedrooms should have the same size/area."
In order to set the exact dimensions, you need to know the exact composition of the wall where the winter garden is. Then I can correct everything according to the given internal dimensions, but the external dimensions of the house will then become different.
I set all the partitions to 160 except the one between the kitchen and the bathroom.
You said that you need to make the partition thicker in the wall where the boiler and washing machine are?
2. "all glass doors/windows should be both openable and tiltable"
That is, do they tilt from above and from the side for a swing opening, or should they slide along the profile to the side?
3. About the base.
If there are screw piles, then you will need to attach a frame of slats to them and attach the finishing to it.
4. I'm starting to get confused with heights. There is a lot of information, sometimes it is contradictory. We can simplify
- what final type of foundation are we considering?
- at what distance will the floor surface be, that is, the 0 mark of the project?
- what is the final height of the walls and roof angle?
- what is the final height of the pergola and canopy (if they are the same)?
- the height of the canopy to its lower part of the structure or the upper?
"Assuming approx. 90-95 cm combined thickness for the house roof and floor, and a minimum interior height of 3 meter on the shorter wall, I propose making the overall exterior height of the house of 4 meter on the shorter wall and 4.3 meter "
- Until I know the type of foundation, I cannot calculate the height.
- While I do not know the composition of the walls near the winter garden and all the partitions, I do not know the exact dimensions of the building.
"With these heights we should also have no problems with the pergola height above the glass doors (avoid blocking natural light)"
- So we make a transparent polycarbonate coating on top? And on the sides there is no covering at all, will there be an marquise there?
In theory, we don’t block light at all 🙂
@chalany Sorry for my long comments and maybe some misunderstandings. I am trying to clarify here below:
1. - Please keep the external dlength and width of the house unchanged. Any adjustments needed we make on the interior.
- For the interior walls (with 2 exceptions), we need 10 cm of mineral wool insulation plus Knauf Diamant 15 mm for each side of the interior walls. I don't know what else you need to be put on top of these. Can you please claculate yourself considering these 2 inputs? thanks
- The 2 expetions for the interior walls are:
A. The wall between entrance area and living room (this is where the washing machine and boiler come, not in the bathroom, sorry for the misunderstanding). For this wall can you please put 2 layers of Knauf Diamant 15 mm on one side only (the side with the entrance area)? On the living room side we put only 1 layer of Knauf Diamant 15 mm. Since this interior wall continues also between the 2 bedrooms, please put the same structure: 2 layers of Knauf Diamant 15 mm on the side with the children bedroom (the one with the 140 cm glass door facing the pergola area) and 1 layer of Knauf Diamant 15 mm on the side with the other bedroom
B. The walls between wintergarden and bedroom, guest room, living room. For these walls we need 20 cm of mineral wool insulation plus 4 cm Steico on the side of the wintergarden. On the sides of the wintergarden please make silicon facade like for the exterior since there rain might come in summer on the walls. Based on these inputs: 1 layer of Knauf Diamant 15 mm on the bedroom/geust room, living room side, plus 20 cm mineral wool insulation, 4 cm Steico on the wintergarden side can you please compute the overall wall thickness for the plan? Thank you
2. I mean like this for the glass doors/windows expect wintergarden where there will be a different system (sliding)
2. Where the are 2 parts of glass doors/windows: kitchen, children bedroom, bedroom, living room, both parts should open and tilt
3. Thanks for your answer. Unfortunately I am not an expert and don't know how this is built and looks like. If you can design and build it like you wrote, I assume it is fine.
4. - Currently we are considering metal screws foundations
- The metal screws will be approx. 65-70 cm above ground level. On these we put the house. The house floor should have 40 cm of mineral wool insulation. On top of these please consider all the other layers which are needed: e.g. OSB, cement plate (e.g. Fermacell 15 mm thick), ceramic and vinyl flooring, underfloor heating, glue etc. I assumed roughly approx 45 cm overall floor thicknes but please compute it exactly yourself since you know better the exact layers which are needed based on these inputs.
- For the overall exterior height please consider: 4 meter on the shorter wall and 4.3 meter on the higher wall. This means there is a difference of 30 cm for the slope. I don't know what teh exact angle for this is, probably somewhere around 2.5 degrees but better keep the heights like this and the angle is just the result, not the input.
- For the carport we have these constraints for the building approval: height from ground level on the wall with the house - 3 meter; height from ground level on the landplot border - 2.7 meter. This means 30 cm difference for the slope.
- regarding the height of the pergola and canopy it depends how it finally fits best and looks like. They can be similar but it does not need to be identical since the galls doors on the side with the pergolas are 2,5 meter high while those on the side with the canopy are 2,25 m high. Can you please try designing the pergola and canopy 50 cm above the upper part of the glass windows on the respective sides, measured on the house wall. In terms of slope I assume 20 cm should be enough for pergola and canopy. If it does not look nice, we can adjust. Thank you
"Assuming approx. 90-95 cm combined thickness for the house roof and floor, and a minimum interior height of 3 meter on the shorter wall, I propose making the overall exterior height of the house of 4 meter on the shorter wall and 4.3 meter "
The roof should have 40 cm of mineral wool insulation. On top of these please consider all the other layers which are needed: e.g. exterior foil (please put 2 layers to have zero risk of mechanical damage/water infiltration), air gaps, OSB, Knauf Diamant 15 mm etc. I assumed roughly approx 45-50 cm overall roof thicknes but please compute it exactly yourself since you know better the exact layers which are needed based on these inputs.
- For the pergola let's please put transparent polycarbonate coating on top. For the other 2 other sides we might decide between such a textile movable cover
and polycarbonate coating depending on how it looks like in the visualisations. I hope we can decide this in the last step, when all the rest is designed and we have the complete view. Thanks a lot for your understanding
In case there is anything else which needs to be clarified, please let me know and I will try to answer fast and short. Thank you. Have a nice weekend!
Good morning. I am trying to summarize here today's email communication. Please see also attached plan with changes in green
. Thank you
Can you please add OSB 12 mm plus vapors foil between the 200 and 100 beams for all exterior walls? Thank you
Regarding the wintergarden: can you please fix the width to 3300 and allocate the difference of approx. 10 cm versus previous version equaly to the children bedroom and bedroom? thank you
Regarding the guest room: can you please slightly shift the wall between guest room and wintergarden, if possible, so that we get 3150 size? Times approx. 3300 on the other side, we should get approx. 10,4 m2 area. Thank you
George:
Why do we use Steico for one wall of the winter garden and not for the other?
Chalany:
Steico need to be on all exterior walls under silicon facade.
On interior walls have to be plaster, also insight of winter garden (so kinds will not scratch skin on wall), so Steico only on outside walls of wintergarden.
I will explained that to Cristian.
George:
This is how I see it.
Please note that I made the central wall not 100 but in a 200 frame, since it will be load-bearing.
@chalany. I understand the arguments for non scratching surface. But unfortunately we cannot put Knauf Diamant inside wintergarten. That area stays open from spring to autumn and rain and dust are damaging the walls. We really need silicon facade inside wintergarten, including Steico layer for accumulation. I hope you can put such a wall there, like discussed yesterday. Thank you
@mhouse that means Steico on side walls and polystyren on seilling of winter garden? Not that it will 2-3000€ price difference putting plaster or like you wanted.
@chalany we have discussed so far about steico and silicon on the side walls of the wintergarden. Why do we need to put polystiren on the roof of the wintergarden which is different than the rest of the house (with mineral wool)? Regarding the cost, can you please explain why steico and silicon is so expensive compared with rigips for such a small surface? Which cheaper and good option we have for the walls there which lasts long against side rain and dust from outside/wind? Thank you.
@mhouse steico will on side walls of the house and wintergarden.
Polystyren just on ceiling of the wintergarden.
Is more time consuming with many layers to make. Then just screw plasterboard.
@chalany what about making the walls there with mineral wool and Rigips and the ceiling with mineral wool and rigips like the house? Is there any type of paint you could apply to the rigips which makes it waterproof and also easy to clean?
Good evening. Thank you for making most of the changes. I uoload here a picture with my comments which are explained here below
1. Walls marked in red. Can you please make them as discussed yesterday: "4. Walls between wintergarden and bedroom & guest room (including the pillars sustaining the doors between wintergarden and living & bedroom): Knauf 12,5 + OSB 12 + Mineral wool 200 + Steico 40 + Pflaster 5, so 27 cm total thickness"
2. Wall marked in blue. Can you please make it like discussed yesterday: "2. Wall between entrance hallway and living room (where washing machine and boiler are): 2 x Knauf 12,5 + OSB 12 + Mineral wool 100 + 2 x Knauf 12,5 so 16.2 cm total thickness"
3. Wall marked in green. Can you please make it like discussed yesterday: "3. Wall between living room and wintergarden (behind the TV): Knauf 12,5 + OSB 12 + Mineral wool 200 + Knauf 12,5, so 23,7 cm total thickness"
For these walls marked in colours and mentioned above, can you please indicate the thickness in the plan? Thank you
4. I am not sure if I understand the new quotes for the kitchen and bathroom window. I see now 1300 in the new version. Does it mean that these windows start at 1300 from floor level and are 950 high (as in my last comments), meaning that the upper end of the windows ist at 2250 from floor level? Thank you for your clarification
5. I marked by hand in brown the length of the various parts of the pergola areas. I suggest to work with round numbers and hope that what I estimated and marked by hand are realistic sizes. Thank you
@chalany Thank you for upadting the floorplan and the visualisations. I am posting my comments below with markups directly in the pictures
FLOORPLAN:
- The windows in the kitchen and bathroom should start at a level 1300 above the interior floor level and be 950 high. Now it's the other way around. Please adjust. Thank you.
- there is no terrace planed in front of the wintergarden, but only stairs.
- can you please slighthly adjust the spaces for the pergola areas: 2750 (covered with polycarbonate) + 2000 + 4000 (covered with polycarbonate) + 5000 and add one vertical wooden beam/pillar in the middle of the last (5000) area?
INTERIOR HEIGHT/SECTION:
- The floor should be thicker. The exact layers and thickness are still under discussion but the overall thickness should be approx. 45-50 cm
- The windows in the kitchen and bathroom should start at a level 1300 above the interior floor level and be 950 high. Now it's the other way around. Please adjust. Thank you.
- the cover above entrance area / canopy is missing. The cover should be made of the same material as the house and carport - metal sheet or foil (still under discussion)
CARPORT:
- I explained already that the carport cannot be higher than 3 meter (from landplot ground level) at the house wall and 2,7 meter at the landplot fence. We cannot get the building approval for a higher carport. Please adjust.
- the cover above entrance area / canopy is missing. The cover should be made of the same material as the house and carport - metal sheet or foil (still under discussion)
PERGOLAS:
- Sorry for the misunderstanding. The pergolas should not be put on high metal screws at the level of the house floor. Inside pergola areas there will be pavement put on the landplot ground. Therefore also no railings needed for the pergolas (no danger to fall since pergolas are at ground level)
- I explained already the the pergola cover should be higher at the house wall - 50 cm above the high glass doors of the bedrooms (2,5 meter high from interior floor level). So pergola cover should start at 3 meter above interior floor level. We need this free space above the high glass dooors for the tubes of the ventilation/recuperation windows and also interior sunblinds fixed on the inside wall above the glass doors. That's why we need this 50 cm high space in between.
- there is no terrace (on high metal screws at the level of the house floor) planed in front of the wintergarden, but only stairs. For the stairs to the front of the wintergarden we will need railings left and right for security reasons (building approval requirement)
ENTRANCE:
- the cover above entrance area / canopy is missing. The cover should be made of the same material as the house and carport - metal sheet or foil (still under discussion)
- there is no terrace (on high metal screws at the level of the house floor) planed in front of the wintergarden, but only stairs. For the stairs to the front of the wintergarden we will need railings left and right for security reasons (building approval requirement)
George: I changed the pergola as the customer wanted - but with such a height up and down all the way to the ground, there is no point in it, it is blown through and does not protect from rain and sun. That’s why I made it as close as possible to the windows from above. But if the customer wants to add communications, then we need to think about something else...
The carport was adjusted (see size 2-2).
Since the composition of the floors is not completely known, it means that I cannot finally shape the project to a height of 4.3 m. A decision needs to be made on the composition of the floors.
I adjusted section 1 and saw that the customer had set the canopy over the entrance also 0.5 m higher.
@chalany Sorry for the late reply. It took some time to get a better understanding of how to optimize space and access around the house. I attach below some markups with changes and write few comments below. Thank you
1. On the floorplan I noticed the following:
- the outside doors from the child room should open inside teh house.
- I would like to add a sliding door between kitchen and living room (sliding inside the wall between child room and main bedroom). Door width should be 1100 and height the usual one for the inside doors (2100). Thank you.
2. Carport needs few changes:
- length of 6250
- now there is 2500 space between the house corner and where the carport length ends - this will be aligned with the 2500 width terrace
- I moved the carport pillars accordingly (the middle ones should be exactly halfway between the other pillars)
3. The biggest changes relate to the canopy and pergolas
- the canpoy (covered with EPDM foil like the house and carport) should become like a covered (EPDM foil roof) terrace with high floor (with the floor at the same level with the house entrance door) almost for the entire front of the house. 1250 width for this part. All around we need rails (1200 high)
- the pergolas (with pavement previously) should become like a covered (polycarbonate roof) terrace with high floor (with the floor at the same level with the house entrance door) almost for the entire back of the house. 2500 width for this part. All around we need rails (1200 high).
- on the right side (with the wintergarden and guest room) we also make a covered (polycarbonate roof) terrace with high floor (with the floor at the same level with the house entrance door). 1250 width for this part. All around we need rails (1200 high).
4. The stairs change now due to the previous mentioned changes:
- entrance stairs: now from left to rigth (covered with EPDM roof like that part of the terrace). 1250 wide, surrounded by rails on the edge (1200 high).
- back terrace stairs (from carport area): from left to rigth (covered with polycarbinate roof like that part of the terrace). Stairs come near the wall, 1000 wide, surrounded by rails on the edge (1200 high).
- back terrace stairs (from wintergarden area to the garden): from right to left (covered with polycarbinate roof like that part of the terrace). Stairs come near the edge of the terrace, 1000 wide, surrounded by rails on the edge (1200 high).
- right side terrace (area with the wintergarden and guest room): there are uncovered stairs from the front side (with the entrance terrace) to the garden. Stairs come near the edge of the terrace, 1000 wide, surrounded by rails on the edge (1200 high). Honestly I am not really happy with this solution for stairs there. If you find a smart idea to put some sort of corner type of stairs, still covered with polycarbonate roof, I would be happy to look at it.
- What is really important is that we need rails all around the terraces since the terrace floor level is quite high (approx. 1200 above gound level) and in Austria it is mandatory to have safety rails.
5. I thought again about the height of the tarraces.
- on the back side, the terrace roof should be 250 (25 cm) above the glass doors at the house wall. We need a slope of 250 for polycarbonate roof (2,5 meter wide) which means that the lower edge of the terrace roof becomes aligned with the glass doors upper level (we cannot go lower, otherwise it does not look nice).
- now the question is, how can we make all the 3 parts of the terrace roofs (back, front and right side) look nice in terms of design since the back terrace roof is 25 cm above the upper level of glass doors (which are higher there - 2,5 meter - than the rest of the glass doors - at 2,25 m). Maybe you have some good ideas. Thank you.
Hello!
If the sliding door needs to be hidden in a pocket in the wall, then the wall needs to be made thicker.
In the corners of the terraces, you need to put uprights. For now, I put them on top of the stairs.
Thanks a lot for the swift changes. It looks very nice. I uploaded here the files with some markups for few changes. I will list the changes also below
1. Floorplan:
- sorry for the misunderstanding. There is only 1 sliding door between kitchen and living room. I marked in the floor plan that between child room and bedroom there should be no sliding door.
- indeed the sliding dorr between kithcen and living room should be hidden in a pocket in the wall. If you need to make that wall thicker, please take the needed space from the living room. But please do not change the wall between the child room and bedroom since there is no sliding door there and we would like to keep both child room and bedroom with the same floor area.
- I marked with a big blue cross in the upper right corner the stairs (without roof cover) which should be removed. It does not look nice my initial thought and we don't really need stairs there. Thank you.
- I marked with small red lines where terrace pillars should be moved - it looks nicer if those pillars come aligned with the house inside walls. For this reason I marked with small blue crosses the pillars which should be shifted to new position - the small red lines already mentioned
2. Top view:
- I marked with a big red cross a small area near the entrance which should not be covered. The roof cover should start above the stairs.
- The whole area on the right side (along wintergarden and guest room) should be covered with polycarbonate roof (not with EPDM foil).
- I marked again with a red cross also here the stairs which we should remove.
- The whole area on the back of the house (bottom part in the visualisation) should be covered with polycarbonate roof, including the area near the wintergarden.
3. Back view:
- I marked in the pdf with green that terrace railings need to come also in that corner near the stairs.
4. Floor thickness:
- the floor is thicker than 42 cm - probably around 50 cm but still under discussion with Juraj.
- once the floor thickness is finalized, probably the roof thickness need to be sligthly adjusted compared to the visualisation version few week ago. Final values will be provided by Juraj. Thanks a lot
@george Thanks for making the changes so quickly. I post below 2 minor comments, thanks
1. Terrace railings on the bottom left side (near the carport)
- I marked with a red line where the railings should end (that is aligned with the beginning of the stairs)
- The small part marked with a blue cross should not have a terrace floor but only a polycarbonate roof. I need that space there in order to be able to walk on the pavement from carport to the garden.
2. Terrace stairs on the bottom right side (near the wintergarden)
- I see that 2 steps of the stairs come outside the polycarbonate roof.
- In order to have the complete stairs covered with polycarbonate roof, can you please move the stairs towards the left so that the entire stairs are covered with polycarbonate roof? Thank you
Greatings!
@george Thanks a lot, it looks very nice. I marked in the below plan with red a small change:
- in the main bedroom: the 80 cm glass door to the terrace should open in fact towards the wall (separating the bedroom from the witergarden). Sorry that I did not notice this before.
- for my understanding: why do the 2 glass doors marked blue (living room and guest room) in the below plan are shown here with different types of symbols for the opening compared to the other glass doors (but the same with the 2 windows in bathroom and kitchen)? Thank you.
Hello!
They were shown as floor windows.
Changed to doors.
